Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone-containing compound and a fatty acid ester

ABSTRACT

The present application relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-containing compound and a specific fatty acid ester. This composition may be used as a care product and/or a make-up product for the skin and/or for keratinous materials.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that may be usedas a make-up composition and/or a skincare composition comprisingsilicone-containing compounds such as silicone oils, gums and/or waxes,and optionally hydrocarbon compounds.

The use of silicone-containing compounds in cosmetic compositions, inparticular make-up compositions, is known. These compounds make itpossible to, inter alia, obtain a particularly homogeneous film on theskin, this film having good cosmetic properties. These compounds alsomake it possible to improve the staying power of the make-up on accountof their hydrophobic nature.

It is also known to use hydrocarbon compounds in cosmetic compositions.However, it has been observed that certain silicone-containing compoundswere incompatible with certain hydrocarbon compounds generally used incosmetic compositions, which thus limited their use.

Various solutions have been proposed in order to allow the preparationof a cosmetic composition comprising both silicone-containing compoundsand hydrocarbon compounds. Mention may be made, for example, of the useof hydrocarbon solvents or co-solvents such as isoparaffins; however,their odour and their volatility are not always appreciated.

Mention may also be made of Patent Application JP 62-169714, whichdescribes a composition comprising a silicone oil and a solid fattysubstance, in which it is necessary, on the one hand, to add during itspreparation an ester oil with a solidification point equal to or above0° C., this oil having a branched intramolecular structure consisting ofa fatty acid and an alcohol, and, on the other hand, to treat thepigment charge with a methylhydrogenopolysiloxane.

Mention may also be made of Application EP 437,216, which describesagents for solubilizing and/or dissolving silicones, which are in theform of esters of formula R₁ COOR₂ where R₁ is a C₄₋₁₇ isoalkyl and R₂is a C₃₋₁₈ isoalkyl. However, when they are applied to the skin, thecosmetic compositions comprising these solubilizing agents give aparticularly unpleasant sensation of dryness, in particular in the caseof lipsticks.

The aim of the present invention is to propose a homogeneous cosmeticcomposition comprising at least one silicone-containing compound incombination with a hydrocarbon compound of high molecular mass.

The subject of the present invention is thus an anhydrous cosmeticcomposition comprising, in a fatty phase, at least onesilicone-containing compound in combination with octyldodecylneopentanoate.

It has in effect been found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that such acomposition is in homogeneous form, that is to say that, in the case ofliquid/liquid mixtures, a homogeneous distribution of the constituentsis observed, leading to a single-phase mixture, and that, in the case ofsolid/liquid mixtures, such as wax-in-oil mixtures, the formation of ahomogeneous and clear mixture under hot conditions and the formation ofa homogeneous dispersion of the wax in the oil upon cooling areobserved.

The composition obtained has the advantage of possessing good cosmeticproperties, and in particular does not give a dry sensation when it isapplied to the skin.

Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that othersilicone-containing and/or hydrocarbon compounds, which are generallymutually incompatible, may be added to the fatty phase while at the sametime keeping the composition homogeneous.

Another subject of the invention is the use of octyldodecylneopentanoate as a compatibilizing agent in an anhydrous cosmeticcomposition comprising at least one silicone-containing compound.

In the present description, the expression compatibilizing agent isunderstood to refer to an agent which makes it possible to obtain ahomogeneous composition as defined above.

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate is a C₅ neopentanoic acid ester of C₂₀isoarachidyl alcohol. It has thus been found that this ester is anexcellent agent for compatibilizing silicone-containing compounds witheach other and/or silicone-containing compounds with hydrocarboncompounds. Furthermore, octyldodecyl neopentanoate has good thermal andchemical stability, and makes it possible to obtain compositions with amuch oilier texture on application, in comparison with compositions ofthe prior art not containing it.

Finally, it has been found that octyldodecyl neopentanoate hasnoteworthy dispersant properties with respect to powders and makes itpossible to obtain a homogeneous dispersion.

Thus, another subject of the invention is the use of this ester as anagent for aiding dispersion, in cosmetic compositions comprisingpowders, thus making it possible to obtain a homogeneous mixture inwhich the pulverulent particles are perfectly dispersed in the fattyphase.

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate may represent preferably 0.5-99% by weight,more preferably 1-70% by weight, of the fatty phase of the compositionaccording to the invention.

The composition according to the invention may generally be in the formof a compacted or poured product, or alternatively in the form of asolid or liquid anhydrous greasy product.

It thus comprises a fatty phase in which are present octyldodecylneopentanoate, at least one silicone-containing compound and optionallyhydrocarbons, and possibly lipophilic or even hydrophilic additives,optionally together with a pulverulent phase comprising pigments and/orfillers.

The fatty phase may represent preferably 1-100% by weight of the finalcomposition, and the pulverulent phase may represent preferably 0-99% byweight of the final composition.

The composition according to the invention thus comprises at least onesilicone-containing compound which may be chosen from silicone oils,gums and/or waxes. Mention may be made in particular of cyclomethiconessuch as cyclomethicones D4, D5 and D6; polydimethylsiloxanes;alkyldimethicones; polyphenylmethylsiloxanes such as phenyldimethiconesand phenyltrimethicones; and silicones modified with aliphatic and/oraromatic groups, which optionally contain fluorine, or with functionalgroups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups. Mention may also bemade of the silicones of formula (I): ##STR1## in which: R₁, R₂, R₅ andR₆ independently represent an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,R₃ and R₄ independently represent an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6carbon atoms or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p beingchosen so as to impart to the silicone-containing compound a viscosityof greater than 100,000 mPa s, preferably of greater than 500,000 mPa s,and possibly ranging up to 1,000,000 mPa s.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise hydrocarboncompounds such as plant, animal, mineral and/or synthetic oils or waxes.

Mention may be made of liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum,perhydrosqualene, arara oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, avocadooil, sesame oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil.It is also possible to use esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, oflauric acid, of stearic acid or of myristic acid for example; alcoholssuch as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or linolenyl alcohol, isostearylalcohol or octyldodecanol; acetyl glycerides, alcohol or polyalcoholoctanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates, caprylic/capric triglyceridesor C₁₀ to C₁₈ fatty acid triglycerides.

It is also possible to use hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25° C.,such as hydrogenated castor oil, palm oil or coconut oil, orhydrogenated tallow; mono- di- tri- or sucroglycerides; lanolins; andfatty esters which are solid at 25° C. Among the waxes, mention may bemade of animal waxes such as beeswax; plant waxes such as carnauba wax,candellila wax, ouricurry wax, Japan wax or waxes from cork fibres orfrom sugar cane; mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, lignite wax,microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites; synthetic waxes and among thesepolyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis.

The composition may also comprise pigments and/or fillers usually usedin such cosmetic compositions.

The pigments may be white or coloured, inorganic, organic and/orpearlescent. Mention may be made, without any limiting nature, oftitanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, black, yellow, red andbrown iron oxides, cerium dioxide, chromium oxide, ferric blue, carbonblack, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium lakes, and mica coatedwith titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride.

The fillers may be inorganic, organic or synthetic, lamellar ornon-lamellar, and spherical or non-spherical. Mention may be made oftalc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon and polyethylene powders, TEFLON,starch, titanium mica, natural mother of pearl, boron nitride, hollowmicrospheres such as Expancel from Nobel Industrie, and silicone resinmicrobeads.

The composition according to the invention may also compriseconstituents usually used in cosmetic compositions of this type.

These constituents are preferably chosen according to the desiredcosmetic effect for the final composition, such as covering power,transparency, the mattness and/or the satiny appearance. Mention may bemade, without any limiting nature, of:

gelling agents such as the modified clays known under the name ofbentone, which are sold by the company NL Industrie and are used as suchor preprocessed in a gel; hydrophobic silica; fatty salts of aluminium.

vitamins such as tocopherols and derivatives thereof, vitamin A andderivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as fattyesters including the palmitate.

sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX), 3-benzophenone(Uvinul M40) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789).

oily materials such as fragrances, essential oils and fluoro oils.

wetting agents such as propylene glycol and glycerol.

The hydrophilic constituents are preferably dispersed in the fattyphase.

The processes for the manufacture of the compositions according to theinvention differ in no way from the processes conventionally used incosmetics which are entirely familiar to those skilled in the art.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a careproduct and/or a make-up product for the skin and/or keratinousmaterials.

This product may be in the form of a free, poured or compacted powder(foundation, blusher or eyeshadow), a more or less fluid anhydrousgreasy product (lipstick, mascara or solvent varnish), an oil or lotionfor the body and/or the face, or even a hair product such as ananhydrous styling gel.

The invention will now be described in greater detail by means of thefollowing examples, which are given solely by way of illustration and inno way limit the invention, and in which the percentages are given byweight.

EXAMPLES Example 1

The solubility of an oil and a silicone gum in the ester according tothe invention and in esters of the prior art, of similar chemicalstructure, was compared. The silicone oil is a PDMS of viscosity 350 mPas (DC200 oil from Dow Corning).

The silicone gum is a gum of formula (I) in which the substituents R1 toR6 and X represent a methyl group, p=0 and n=2300, of viscosity 500,000mPa s (AK 500,000 from Wacker).

The following results were obtained:

    ______________________________________                                                        Number of                                                                     carbon           Silicone                                                     atoms  Silicone oil                                                                            gum                                          ______________________________________                                        Octyldodecyl neopentanoate                                                                      20 + 5   ∞   ∞                                  (Elefac 1-205 from Bernel Chemical)                                           Isostearyl neopentanoate                                                                        18 + 5   0         0                                        (Ceraphyl 375 from ISP)                                                       2-hexyldecyl isononanoate                                                                       16 + 9   0         0                                        (Stearineries Dubois)                                                         Isostearyl isononanoate                                                                         18 + 9   0         0                                        (Lanol 189 from SEPPIC)                                                       ______________________________________                                         ∞: excellent solubility of the oil and of the gum in the ester          considered was found, in all proportions.                                     0: no solubility of the oil or of the gum in the ester considered was         found.                                                                   

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate makes it possible to obtain a homogeneouscomposition comprising the ester considered and a particular siliconeoil or a particular silicone gum, whereas esters of similar chemicalstructure do not allow this.

Example 2

The maximum mass content of ester which may be added, at 25° C., to asolution of gum in a silicone oil without observing precipitation of thegum was measured.

The test solution comprised a gum of formula (I) in which thesubstituents R1 to R6 represent a methyl group, the substituent Xrepresents a hydroxyl group, p=0 and n=2,700, as a 13% solution inpolydimethylsiloxane (Q2-1403 from Dow Corning).

The following results were obtained:

    ______________________________________                                        Octyldodecyl neopentanoate                                                                        no precipitation up                                       (Elefac 1-205 from Bernel Chemical)                                                               to at least 1000%                                         ______________________________________                                        Isostearyl neopentanoate                                                                          68%                                                       (Cheraphyl 375 from ISP)                                                      2-hexyldecyl isononanoate                                                                         72%                                                       (Stearineries Dubois)                                                         Isostearyl isononanoate                                                                           60%                                                       (Lanol 189 from SEPPIC)                                                       ______________________________________                                    

It was found that octyldodecyl neopentanoate makes it possible tosolubilize a particular gum virtually infinitely, whereas esters ofsimilar chemical structure do not allow this.

Example 3

The correct compatibility (solubility) of octyldodecyl neopentanoatewith several silicone-containing compounds of different chemicalstructure was observed. The following results were obtained:

    ______________________________________                                        Silicone oil(PDMS)     ∞                                                DC200 from Dow Corning 350 mPa s                                              Phenyltrimethicone     ∞                                                BELSIL PDM 1000 from Wacker                                                   Diphenyldimethicone    greater than 10%                                       Gum 761 from Rhone Poulenc                                                    Alkyldimethicone       ∞                                                D2 5519 from Dow Corning                                                      Fluorodimethicone      ∞                                                GRANSIL DM 100 from Grant                                                     Amodimethicone         ∞                                                L656 from Wacker                                                              Hydroxylated silicone  ∞                                                SILBIONE 71516V60 from Rhone Poulenc                                          PDMS + trimethyl siloxysilicate mixture                                                              ∞                                                (67/33) DC593 from Dow Corning                                                ______________________________________                                         ∞: excellent solubility of the siliconecontaining compound in the       ester was found, in all proportions.                                     

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate thus has a certain compatibility with a largenumber of silicone-containing compounds of diverse chemical structures.

Example 4

A mixture was prepared comprising:

30% of PDMS+trimethyl siloxysilicate mixture (DC593 from Dow Corning)

30% of alkyldimethicone (ABIL WAX 9801 from Goldschmidt) and

40% of octyldodecyl neopentanoate

A homogeneous solution was obtained, whereas, in the absence ofoctyldodecyl neopentanoate, an inhomogeneous mixture of the constituentswas observed, macroscopically and microscopically. Octyldodecylneopentanoate may thus be used as a co-solvent for silicones which aremutually incompatible.

Example 5

A lipstick was prepared comprising:

    ______________________________________                                        octyldodecyl neopentanoate  60%                                               diphenyldimethicone (Gum 761 trom Rhone Poulenc)                                                          0.1%                                              polyethylene wax            13.5%                                             microcrystalline wax        4.5%                                              arachidyl propionate        10%                                               pigments                    11.9%                                             ______________________________________                                    

The silicone gum was dissolved in the octyldodecyl neopentanoate at 80°C. After homogenization, the other constituents were added, at 95° C.

After stirring and grinding, the mixture was poured, at 95° C., intoalveoli so as to obtain a lipstick having good cosmetic properties. Inparticular, no dry sensation on the lips is reported on application ofthe lipstick, this being an advantageous sensory aspect of thecomposition according to the invention.

Example 6

A lipstick was prepared comprising:

    ______________________________________                                        octyldodecyl neopentanoate 65%                                                alkyldimethicone (D2 5519 from Dow Corning)                                                              5%                                                 polyethylene wax           13.5%                                              microcrystalline wax       4.5%                                               pigments                   12%                                                ______________________________________                                    

The constituents were all mixed together at 95° C.

After homogenization and grinding, the mixture was poured, at 95° C.,into alveoli so as to obtain a lipstick having good cosmetic properties.

Example 7

An eyeshadow was prepared having the following composition:

pulverulent phase

    ______________________________________                                               talc            48%                                                           titanium mica   30%                                                           chromium oxide  8%                                                            zinc oxide      2%                                                     ______________________________________                                    

fatty phase

    ______________________________________                                        octyldodecyl neopentanoate  10%                                               gum + oil mixture (Q2-1403 from Dow Corning)                                                              2%                                                ______________________________________                                    

The constituents of the pulverulent phase were mixed together, the fattyphase was then added and the fixture was stirred, sieved and compactedinto a metal shell.

An eyeshadow having good cosmetic properties was obtained.

Example 8

A face powder was prepared having the following composition:

pulverulent phase

    ______________________________________                                               talc            61%                                                           mica            20%                                                           Nylon powder    6%                                                            iron oxide      7%                                                     ______________________________________                                    

fatty phase

    ______________________________________                                        octyldodecyl neopentanoate                                                                             2.4%                                                 dimethicone              3.6%                                                 ______________________________________                                    

By the same procedure as in Example 7, a compacted face powder havinggood cosmetic properties was obtained.

We claim:
 1. A care product and/or a makeup product for the skin and/orkeratinous material comprising an anhydrous composition comprising, in afatty phase, at least one silicone-containing compound and octyldodecylneopentanoate, wherein the product is applied to the skin and/orkeratinous material in the anhydrous form.
 2. A product according toclaim 1, wherein the fatty phase further comprises at least one secondsilicone-containing compound, at least one hydrogen and carbon-basedcompound other than octyldodecyl neopentanoate, or a mixture of at leastone second silicone-containing compound and at least one hydrogen andcarbon-based compound other than octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
 3. Aproduct according to claim 1, wherein the octyldodecyl neopentanoaterepresents 0.5-99% by weight of the weight of the fatty phase.
 4. Aproduct according to claim 3, wherein the octyldodecyl neopentanoaterepresents 1-70% by weight of the weight of the fatty phase.
 5. Aproduct according to claim 1, further comprising a pulverulent phase. 6.A product according to claim 1, wherein said at least onesilicone-containing compound is a silicone oil, a gum, or a wax.
 7. Aproduct according to claim 2, wherein said at least one other hydrogenand carbon based compound is a plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oilor wax.
 8. A product according to claim 2, wherein said at least oneother hydrogen and carbon based compound is liquid paraffin, liquidpetrolatum, perhydrosqualene, arara oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllumoil, avocado oil, sesame oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil andcereal germ oil; an ester of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauricacid, of stearic acid or of myristic acid; an alcohol; an acetylglyceride, an alcohol polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate, or ricinoleate,a caprylic/capric triglyceride or a C₁₀ to C₁₈ fatty acid triglyceride;a hydrogenated oil that is solid at 25° C.; a mono- di- tri- orsucroglyceride; lanolin; or a fatty ester that is solid at 25° C.;beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, Japan wax or a waxfrom cork fibres or from sugar cane; paraffin wax, lignite wax or amicrocrystalline wax or ozokerite; a polyethylene wax; or a wax obtainedby Fischer-Tropsch synthesis.
 9. A product according to claim 8, whereinsaid alcohol is oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.
 10. A product according to claim8, wherein said hydrogenated oil hydrogenated castor oil, palm oil,coconut oil, or hydrogenated tallow.
 11. A product according to claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises pigments, fillers, or mixturesthereof.
 12. A product according to claim 11, wherein said pigment is amineral, organic or pearlescent pigment.
 13. A product according toclaim 11, wherein said filler is an inorganic, organic or synthetic,lamellar or non-lamellar, spherical or non-spherical filler.
 14. Aproduct according to claim 11, wherein said pigment is titanium dioxide,zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, iron oxides, cerium dioxide, chromiumoxide, ferric blue; or a carbon black, barium, strontium, calcium oraluminium lake.
 15. A product according to claim 11, wherein said filleris mica coated with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride; talc,mica, silica, kaolin, nylon or polyethylene powder, TEFLON, starch,titanium mica, natural mother of pearl, boron nitride, hollowmicrospheres or silicone resin microbeads.
 16. A product according toclaim 1 wherein said product is a free, poured or compacted powder, afluid anhydrous greasy product, an oil for the body and/or the face, alotion for the body and/or the face, or a hair product.
 17. A productaccording to claim 16 wherein said product is a foundation, a blusher,eyeshadow, a lipstick, a mascara, a solvent varnish, or an anhydrousstyling gel.
 18. A product according to claim 1, wherein said careproduct and/or makeup product does not contain water.